The Peripatetic Historian
Walking into the New Year, Taipei. January 2025, Vol. 4, no. 8.
Welcome to the December issue of the Peripatetic Historian.
This Month:
Peripatetic Field Report: A Jolly Taipei Christmas
Book News
A 2024 Retrospective
Let’s get started…
Peripatetic Field Report: A Jolly Taipei Christmas
Q: What do you call Christmas in Taipei?
A: Wednesday.
I was unsurprised to learn that the people of Taiwan do not (for the most part) celebrate Christmas. December 25 (Wednesday) is neither a national nor a school holiday.
There was no reason to expect anything else. According to the best statistical resources (Wikipedia) a mere 5.8% of Taiwan’s population embrace the Christian faith. So, as last year in Jordan, I had low expectations for Wednesday.
And yet, despite no obvious cultural or religious motivation to commemorate the holiday, as the days clicked off our Advent calendar apps, signs of Christmas bloomed like winter tulips across the landscape.
The commercial fields led the way: if Taiwan’s merchants ever seize control of the calendar, Christmas will become a leading holiday. Even without official sanction the stores did their best to stoke enthusiasm. By October’s end the Halloween pumpkins had been relegated to the warehouses and the first Santas, lights, and plastic Christmas trees appeared on the shelves.
Many examples of the old Tannenbaum sprouted in department store windows. The gay trill of Christmas carols oozed from hidden speakers.
But none of these manifestations of holiday cheer prepared me for the glory of:
Christmasland
Billed as “a 48 Day Magical Transformation,” Christmasland opened on Nov. 15 in New Taipei City. Spilling across four public squares outside the Banqiao Metro station, Christmasland was a stunning testament to the glory that can be achieved with LED lights, aluminum frames, and several hundred rolls of duct tape.
It was a decidedly odd display. Apart from an inverted tree-shaped structure at the center of the festivities, the connection to the more familiar manger/North Pole scenes one might encounter in the United States or Britain was difficult to spot.
Lo! Be of good cheer and embrace the unorthodox accoutrements. According to the city’s press release, Christmasland 2024 was a re-imagining of the holiday, complete with fresh, fantasy-themed characters.
Bid farewell to that old grump, Saint Nick. Christmasland rebooted the franchise and introduced modern characters. Welcome the magical angel named “Little Ke” (job description: “element explorer”), Owl (“arcane sage”), Rabbit (“soul healer”), and Unicorn (“sacred shield guardian”). These avatars of the Taiwan Yuletide celebration stood ready to guide visitors through the magical realm of Christmasland.
It was like a trip through the wardrobe to Narnia—only with more lights and an arcane sage.
Christmasland put the fest(ival) in “fest-ooned.” Light tunnels radiated from the central tree like the arms of a decapitated octopus. Crowds surged beneath the illuminated spaces, a grinding flow that repeatedly choked and stopped as the essential selfies were captured.
A magical, eight-story Light/Ice Palace rose near the exit of the light tunnel maze. I question the “eight-story” claim—the structure towered to a height of no more than 20 feet by my estimate. There was, however, a surfeit of LED lights. The accountants in the Taipei Power billing department are surely anticipating Christmasland bonuses.
Christmasland struck me as an apt metaphor for Christmas in Taipei. It offered a nod to the western version (lights), but like an “element explorer” or “arcane sage” it lacked the familiar cues required to stimulate resonance or recognition.
It was a very odd non-celebration.
Book News
The 2024 Retrospective
What a year it was. I spent the past week flipping through this year’s back issues of the Peripatetic Historian. We covered many miles and several volumes of history. You probably have your own memories to contemplate as a new year dawns, but here are a few I enjoyed revisiting:
Petra, Jordan. With the journals of Johann Ludwig Burkhardt in hand, I returned to Petra and followed his steps through the ancient city. In the absence of tourists I could almost imagine the site as it must have appeared when he rediscovered it. (Jan. 2024: Click here for the Story).
Walk like an Egyptian. Illustrating the principle that time softens every edge, my report of a three-week sojourn in Egypt seems more amusing to me now than it did at the time. (Feb. 2024: Click Here for the Story).
Still in Love with Venezia. Any year that includes time spent in the world’s greatest city is going to lock a smile on my lips. May found me wandering the weathered-stone calli for two blissful weeks. History, art, culture, wine—pure magic. (Jun. 2024: Click Here for the Story).
Trembling Through Ghost Month. I reached Taipei in mid-August, halfway through Ghost Month. As unfettered spirits roamed the countryside, two very real earthquakes rattled our new apartment. (Sept. 2024: Click Here for the Story). This was followed by three typhoons which, collectively, offered a lively introduction to our new Taiwan home. (Nov. 2024: Click Here for the Story).
Fresh Vistas Beckon
That’s quite a list, and it only covers the highlights. 2025 promises new adventures. In two weeks I will return to Hong Kong which, prior to my love affair with Venice, ranked as my favorite city. I haven’t been there since 1997. An inspection tour is long overdue.
A year ago, I wouldn’t have predicted the experiences described above. I’ll make no predictions about what comes next. The trick is to surrender to the current and savor the ride.
The journey is the destination.
I wish you all the best in your own journeys as we enter a new year. Be safe, be sensible, and I will see you next month.
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